SøEdited Team: SøCreative Director: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe The timelessness goes through Jarel Zhang collection, the designer mixed textures, shapes and colors adding new silhouettes meantime recycling items from the previous FW23 collection. Jarel plays between past, present and future in his artistic direction but also through his looks. Following his passion for art and after having made the previous presentation surrounded by painters, for this FW24 collection, Jarel Zhang brings dancers on the stage as models. Jarel also develops this idea by presenting his collection in Italy. For him, it's important to exhibit in different cities. With this in mind, Jarel Zhang insists on the absence of boundaries. Press: TOTEM FASHION
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SøEdited Team: SøCreative Director: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe Rocky Star has always been dedicated to the vision of creating fashion that is as contemporary as it is rooted and as elegant as it is innovative. And since 1995 the brand has been creating luxury contemporary design, with a striking edge of Rock N Roll. This season, Rocky Star's “Moonlight Enigma” Autumn/Winter 24/25 collection draws inspiration from the fearless Vikings and the captivating mystique of the Nordic region. Designed for women who exude both power and sensuality, exquisite pieces blend elements with timeless elegance. Luxurious silhouettes embellished with sequin embroidery, metallic textures, and the brand's signature botanical prints capture the essence of luxury. A color palette featuring gold, black, and grey envelopes each dress, creating a symphony of daring sophistication. Press: BLACK PR
SøEdited Team: SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe KARL LAGERFELD Pre-Fall 2024 A core palette of black and white is complemented by the primary colours blue and red, these colours have become a modern classic standard writing fashion, and elevating the simple tones. Futuristic cuts and shapes along side a contemporary traditional silhouette serve a wearable and flexible option in fashion design.
FRONTLINE FASHION SøEdited Team Article: Alexander James SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe Ukrainian Fashion Week chose London as its platform once again to showcase its design talent, while full-scale war rages in its homeland. Brands TAMAR KEBURIA, J’AMEMME and GASANOVA all introduced AW24 collections at London Fashion Week.
GASANOVA The GASANOVA AW24 collection is a hymn to the rich and aromatic world of spices, inspired by the warmth and depth that these ingredients bring to our daily lives. Colour palette are a blend of noble hues, including deep burgundy, earthy brown, serene green, elegant blue and shades of gold.
J’AMEMME Daring nude sequins and ethereal pleats became the core of J’AMEMME’s AW24 collection, called Le solstice d'hiver. Inspired by the works of Ukrainian illustrator Okhrim Sudomora, who portrayed the world of micelles, the collection recreates the authentic shapes and textures inherent in the artist's work.
TAMRIKO KEBURIA Designer Tamriko Keburia, twice displaced by war, brings a deeply personal and poignant perspective to the runway with a collection that marries fashion with the complex theme of refugee identity. Through symbolic mirrored suitcases, the runway invites viewers to reflect on their own lives in the context of a refugee's journey – a journey the designer themselves have navigated.
SøEdited Team: SøCreative Director: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe "Once upon a Time" Paul Costelloe's AW 2024 collection takes you to the streets of Downtown New York and its Lower East Side. In true style, both in fashion and in story telling, Costelloe travels a journey of the brands historical roots and heritage. Winter whites, charcoal greys, rich tweeds with leather trimmings, along with Costelloe's bold tailoring. Voluminous shapes in wool knitwear and coats to shield form the NY wounds blowing across its urban jungle. Classic design still has its place in fashion, as always the brand dictates with elegance and wearability. Costelloe: "I have added a personal moment of nostalgia by adding a print based on the streets where I used to live" Press: TRACE PR
SøEdited Team: SøCreative Director: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe August 2023 was the passing of British iconic PUNK artist Jamie Reid, infamous for his works with The Sex Pistols and their covers and logos. For Fall-Winter 2024. Hiroaki Sueyasu, Kidill’s artistic director, mentions, “Jamie was my very starting point”. Sueyasu adds, “the loss of something I believed would be in experience somewhat eternally is like a void, he was a stranger, but he was also portraying me. Even though Jamie and the other remarkable figures who created early punk have left us, it is our duty to ensure that the essence of punk, that has influenced our time and our people in countless ways, stays alive. I would like to offer my condolences inimitably. The preeminent theme for the Fall-Winter 2024 collection is not simple destruction or denial, but the positive energy of those who live in the same era continuing to reboot the “punk”. The collection, with its DIY-inspired embellishments, prints and jacquard weaves by Japanese artisans, is an exploration of the intersection of early punk classicism and modernity in design, silhouette, and the essence of detailing. Sueyasu dares the praises of "punk" through an array of excessive destructs, reviving of FOSTEXGARMENTS MA-1s, ripped denim, and vintage-washed-out cut-and-sewns/t-shirts/ tops. Press: TOTEM FASHION
 SøEdited Team: SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe AW24 sees a re-charged collaboration with artist and designer, Jack Irving showcasing his work of wearable inflatable art sculptures through a creative live installation. Now in its 22nd year, On|Off continues to support creative innovation and push boundaries through fashion, technology and art. On|Off Director Lee Lapthorne spoke about the collaboration with Jack Irving, this being several season now with Irving and On|Off collaborating together during LFW. “I am excited to be working with Jack again and embracing cutting-edge technology, such as advanced video projection systems and holographic technology, to create an immersive experience, in collaboration with Jack. Integrating state-of-the-art presentation technologies with artificial intelligence (AI) opens up a realm of possibilities for creative expression and innovation within the world of fashion and art” Set at Spitalfields E1, the creative concept is based on a subterranean aquatic underworld with the discoveries of a new alien species set in a backdrop of an abandoned power plant in the ocean. Over the years, the sea combined with electromagnetic energy has been harnessing and creating new hybrid alien life forms.     SøEdited Team: SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe Ones to Watch alongside London Fashion Week AW2024 focused on 3 designers, each with individual ideas blending fabrics, styles and imagination, sparked ideas and adventure during London Fashion Week AW2024
Sergazi Firenze Tailored and simple lines, block colours and tones. Preserving modesty and elegance for the modern and woman.
Alenki playful Knitwear and deconstructed looks, showing inspirations from youth cultures PUNk and Grunge movements. A strong idea of rebellion yet sophistication.
Safarah Blending the Avant-Garde with a circus joy, yet serious undertone worked surprisingly well. Pop colours and muted tones added contrast to the collection.
SøEdited Team: SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe A quirky yet menacing observation from JU-NNA, with this dystopian look at clerical workers, both sexy and aggressive translated on to the runway. Autumn Winter 2024 drawing inspiration from Japanese street photography documenting drunk and exhausted workers sprawled across Tokyo’s streets. This season’s collection delves into the dichotomy of exhaustion and professionalism, in what is a strong cultural observation by the brilliant JU-NNA. The colour palette, carefully curated from city landscapes representing the often dreary atmosphere of capitalism and its narrative, aims to blend individuals into the monotonous greys. From the twisted and folded tailoring to the playful yet undone aesthetic, each garment is embedded with the juxtaposing narrative of professionalism and exhaustion. Fabrics range from Shibori-dyed silk jersey to traditional wool coats, an ease of mixing modernity and tradition. Stainless steel tie pins are utilized as embellishments, feminizing the classically masculine accessories. Emphasized and vertical diagonal lines are used to create the harsh lines seen in corporate architecture. Press: Black PR
SøEdited Team: SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe Structured graphic body hugging lines, flashes of skin and bellowing shoulders. Maison Yoshiki Paris presented an all noir collection, including apparel, accessories, and shoes. Detailed in the collection chrome zips adding a flash of PUNK and rebellion to this elegant modern and simplistic structural dress code. Show Credits: Styling: Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele Hair: Odile Gilbert Makeup: Kabuki Casting: Maida Gregori Boina Production: Fasten Seat Belt
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Sø•FASHIONStructure over ornament. Memory over surface. Archives
January 2026
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