SøEdited Team SøBeauty Director: Astrid Kearney SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe Caroline Hu’s Fall 2025 collection, Reverie, at Paris Fashion Week unfolded like a dream—soft, surreal, and stitched with the frenzied thoughts of an uncertain future. It was a response to the world’s cruelty, a poetic counterpoint to the relentless stream of dark news that lingers on screens and in minds. Instead of descending into despair, Hu crafted a deeply romantic vision, layering fragile beauty over the undercurrents of decay.
Her ethereal tulle gowns billowed with delicate rose ribbon embroideries, distressed ruffles, and wisps of ostrich feathers, while mullet dresses swelled like mushroom clouds—volumes of soft destruction. Her signature smocking technique found new expression in quilted floral appliqué, appearing in sheer, layered shifts that felt as if they had been painted onto the air itself. The collection, though dreamlike, was not detached from reality—on the runway, models wore Adidas Originals instead of heels, embodying resilience rather than fragility.
Backstage, this interplay of dream and unease extended to the beauty direction. Lead makeup artist Mandy Gakhal, with the AOFM Pro Team, created a hauntingly delicate breakdown of the skin—purple shadows pooling beneath the eyes, lips mottled as if from biting them in restless thought, and sculpted cheekbones carved from sleeplessness. The hair, led by guru Eugene Souleiman with assistant Carlo Avena echoed the sensation of tossing in a fever dream.
Strands clung to the scalp as though damp with night sweats, while others levitated mid-air, frozen in the tension of subconscious unrest. A potent mix of coconut oil and mega-strong hairspray held the illusion in place, preserving the weightless, suspended moment between sleep and waking.
Amongst it all, a painted duvet dress emerged—a vision of the dream itself, as though the wearer had stepped straight from sleep onto the runway, wrapped in the remnants of their subconscious. Reverie was not just a collection but a suspended moment—beauty in the face of collapse, softness standing defiantly against the storm.
ARTICLE & PHOTOGRAPHY: ASTRID KEARNEY ILLUSTRATIONS: LOUISE BOUGHTON
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