SøEdited Team Article: Lucy Ashburner SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe What sets London Fashion Week apart from its counterparts in New York, Milan and Paris? Well, it has a certain edge to it, a slightly grungy feel, and it’s the place if you’re an upcoming talent looking for exposure. Think McQueen, Galliano and McCartney - all of whom burst onto the scene in the British capital. On Saturday evening, - in the eternally trendy location of Shoreditch - we were introduced to seven new prodigies at Fashion Scout’s highly esteemed ‘Ones to Watch’ show. With a star-studded alumni featuring the likes of Eudon Choi and Phoebe English, it’s clear that those in the lineup are destined for greatness, and if the showing last night is any indicator, some are already there.
The winner of Fashion Scout Armenia 2025, Emma Aleksanyan of Aleska Vertige was tasked with opening the show, and whilst perhaps not the most uplifting, her collection was London fashion personified. Drawing inspiration from the Japanese samurai code of honour, she opted to send some models down the runway barefoot certainly raised some eyebrows, but stylistically it worked - Aleksanyan had a vision, and it was clear. The layering within her looks was impeccably done, the muted greys and blues with complimentary pops of burgundy were consistent, and the unisex accessories were a welcomed addition.
If the goal was to send guests away with a smile plastered over their face, then Min-Ji Kim was the perfect choice to close what was an incredible showing of talent and innovation. Models didn’t walk her runway - they were characters in the surreal and wonderful universe she created through experimental garments and ostentatious accessories. Entitled ‘Call Me’, the looks were themed around retro telephones, as they spilt out oversized bags and cords encircled the ankles of the models. The silhouettes were the definition of avant garde, with bold stripes and comically large buttons making numerous appearances throughout the show. It was fun, and it was certainly quirky - was it wearable? Perhaps not in the average day-to-day, but it didn’t matter - it was Min-Ji Kim’s universe - and we were just thankful to observe it.
It was the debut collection for Invisible Boundaries - a period in which young brands can feel confused and lack a sense of direction. This was not the case in this instance, with a small, yet highly meaningful range of four looks. The starting point in the creative process was the idea of anxiety, with the designer explaining that when experiencing such a feeling she wants to blend into the background, thus a concept of clothes that represent humans and objects amalgamating was born. This sense of inspiration is clear when you focus on the fabrics used within the collection, as she opted for a range of wax, raincoat and canvas materials, offering an appealing textural range. For the final look, the designer opted to use window trim in order to create a structural hem - just a further example of an innovative silhouette within the showcase.
Guests were treated to a tasteful fusion of Indian and Western aesthetics when Khushi Kumar took centre stage. Having recently moved back to India, the Manchester School of Art graduate drew inspiration from her culture, bringing in traditional textiles to create a collection themed initially around her parents wedding photos. Intricate gold embroidery - which stood out against a deep velvet red - reflected the classic, heavy jewellery but in a more wearable, everyday form. Speaking of, every stitch is done so by hand - a further nod to ancestral craft - demonstrating that heritage techniques can be applied to contemporary designs.
If Fashion Scout has a shining star, it’s Maldonado. Some designers just have it, that special quality that cannot be taught, a certain je ne sais quoi if you will. It was a debut collection for the ages, and his key source of inspiration? Insects. Bees, mosquitoes and dung beetles were reimagined in a show of statement outerwear crafted from an eccentric range of materials, all of which are natural products. Maldonado opts to use furs and leathers that are byproducts of food production - ensuring the quality is optimal and waste is minimal. Even at this stage of his career, his collection felt incredibly high-fashion and complete, as each garment hung off the model perfectly as they floated down the runway. If there is a name to remember, it’s his.
Having shown in New York a week prior, it was a quick turnaround for Oxford Graduate Dr Margarita Fedoseev, founder of Mad Daisy. Since its inception in 2017, Fedoseev has aimed to unite fashion and museum culture - which was achieved on Saturday evening as she presented ‘Lumière de Guillaumin’ - a thoughtful fusion French impressionist painter Jean-Baptiste Armand Guillaumin and modern clothing. Light, airy fabrics became canvases for artistic prints in a range of cool shades of blue and grey, devising a wearable form of art, and fostering a new dialogue around gallery culture.
Indian designer Astha Garg is in the process of completing her studies at London College of Fashion - although she’s already firmly on the path to success. Working between London and her home country, Garg produced a collection centred around the theme of lingering, and how we as humans interact with the world around us. The varied range of material - banana leather (the brand is entirely vegan), recycled fabric and even wood - was intentional, with each look appealing to multiple senses. A standout moment was perhaps an entirely hand-embroidered floor length dress, which took an astonishing 112 days to create, highlighting the immense craftsmanship behind her brand. Additionally the model - similarly to several others - carried a handcrafted mask (which in itself took 6-8 months to produce) made in collaboration with a local artisan.
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