Genaro Rivas - A Glass to Break - AW26

​SøEdited Team
Article: Lucy Ashburner
SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims 
​SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe

​When Suzy Menkes - the world’s most famous fashion journalist - greets you personally at a reception held in your honour at the Peruvian embassy, you must be quite the talent - and what a talent Genaro Rivas is.
 
Despite only graduating from London College of Fashion in 2024 with an MA in Fashion Entrepreneurship and Innovation, the young designer’s resume is absolutely stacked. He pioneered Latin America’s first 3D printed dress, became the first Peruvian to land a place on the official LFW schedule, and was named by Forbes as one of his nation’s top 50 creatives. All things considered, it’s hardly surprising that on Sunday evening the N0.30 in Knightsbridge was packed out with high-profile guests in anticipation for his sixth consecutive showing since his debut. Spanning over two floors, the backdrop was beautifully complimentary, with classical artwork adorning the walls and ornate chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, offering a brief glimpse of what would later be sent down the runway. 

Entitled “A Glass to Break”, this collection was birthed from two separate interactions with broken surfaces: once in Berlin, with a photograph of glass shattered by a bullet, and once on a quiet morning in Russell Square with his astrologer. He saw beyond what many others would, and instinctively found that in fragility, there is immense strength. From there, he manifested these emotions into twenty-six looks, stitched together with mohair, denim and silk alongside innovative textiles such as plant-based leather, wetland-grown insulation and next-generation biomaterials.
 
The opening models stepped out to a heavy, rock-inspired tune, suggesting an act of rebellion, perpetuated by a sharp colour palette of deep blacks and metallic silvers with glimpses of a stark red - which remained cohesive throughout (with the exception of a singular vivid yellow coat-dress). Structural silhouettes, exaggerated sleeves and precise tailoring allowed for fluid movements, whilst fine, intricate details - such as what appeared to be laser-cut triangles resembling shards of glass - brought extensive drama to the show. Numerous looks were complimented by extravagent headpieces by Roberta Cucuzza, which once more made a reference to shattered glass, remaining in line with the essence of the clothes.
 
The show was a surge of artistic expression and intense emotion - each look was clearly highly considered, and sculpted to align with themes of vulnerability, yet also healing and strength. Rivas received a genuine applause from a moved and impressed crowd, as he stepped out for his final bow and embrace with friend and fashion commentator Hanan Besovic (commonly known as @Ideservecouture), who warmly offered his congratulations.
 
At this young stage of his career, Rivas has the intense pressure of the industries eyes firmly gazed upon him, and yet, he continues to deliver masterpiece after masterpiece. Remember his name, as we are surely witnessing the early years of someone who will one day be a formidable force.

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