Leo Prothmann AW26 “CABAÑA”

​SøEdited Team
SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims 
​SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe
PHOTOGRAPHER: @REBECCAMAYNES

​High above the city at the The Mandrake Hotel’s Jurema Terrace, Leo Prothmann made his official debut at London Fashion Week with CABAÑA, an all-genders Autumn/Winter 2026 collection shaped by ideas of protection, permanence and emotional restraint.

The atmosphere felt contemplative rather than theatrical. Prothmann drew inspiration from time spent in the mist-heavy mountains of San José del Pacífico, where earthen buildings and weathered surfaces informed the palette. Mud, oxblood, mustard, teal and forest green appeared throughout — colours that seemed absorbed into the garments rather than simply applied.

Silhouette carried the collection’s narrative. Oversized outerwear dominated, with curved, structured shoulders that held their form before softening toward the cuff. Prothmann’s recurring “shell” constructions returned as quilted leather parkas and elongated capes, assembled from hand-applied strips of offcut leather and reinforced internally with boning. The result was architectural yet responsive: garments that stood with clarity before yielding to movement. A deliberate slouch offset the technical precision, preventing the pieces from feeling rigid.

Leather remains central to the designer’s vocabulary. Upholstery hides supplied by Nene Valley Leather gave the garments a dense, tactile solidity designed to endure. Material experimentation also surfaced through fish leather sourced via Inversa Leathers, transforming invasive species into textured surfaces.

Function sharpened the collection’s edge. In collaboration with Dr. Martens, the Jadon boot was reimagined as a hiking-ready silhouette, complete with cargo-style detailing and waterproof construction. Accessories extended the sculptural language, including resin eyewear developed with Cubitts and jewellery by Ollivion.

Rather than proposing escape, CABAÑA suggested shelter — clothing conceived as protective structures shaped by environment and endurance. In securing a place on the London schedule, Prothmann introduced a studio increasingly confident in its material discipline and architectural clarity.