'The signature second skin ‘Body Con’ dresses that the house is notable for didn’t disappoint'
Fashion Director: Joseph Toronka
Azzedine Alaïa without a doubt was a legend amongst legends of the fashion fraternity. He was one of the last great technical designers, often found in his studio manually working on his collections. As a designer he considered all aspects of womanhood to deliver a brand that made women feel special.
Fast forward four years after his death and the arrival of Pieter Mulier as creative director. Muiler has a great pedigree working alongside the maverick Raf Simons during his tenure across many prolific brands. This was always going to be a challenge to step into the great man’s shoes, but in Muiler Richemont the parent company had made a prodigious choice. Muiler delivered a debut collection that paid homage to Alaïa and his Maison team. He was aware of maintaining the brand's core DNA, whilst hoping to attract a new customer base to the brand.
Precisely cut tailoring kicked off the proceedings long and lean in its lines, topped off with a hood a detail that ran throughout the collection. This had a sense of reminiscence to the founders Tunisian heritage, but also to the outfit designed for her one time muse actress and singer Grace Jones in the James Bond epic ‘A View to a kill’. The signature second skin ‘Body Con’ dresses that the house is notable for didn’t disappoint, there was an element of freshness to them using ultra fine sheer knits that clung to every curve of the body. As always they maintained the sense of sexuality without vulgarity.
Knitwear development has always been a major aspect of the Alaïa code, like their signature to die for viscose knit pieces, and this season was no different. Sumptuous leggings and body hybrids were teamed with slinky flippy bias cut skirts or dresses, possibly a sign of the new order. Waist focus was created with signature wide leather belts, whilst technically layered leather glistened in a classic strapless corset dress. There were classic house signatures everywhere but it had a slight edge of modernity as in the Japanese denim hooded ensemble.
Muiler’s time under Simons was palpable, but felt elevated by the expert execution of his new Maison’s team. It will be interesting to see how he develops a brand that has such strong foundations having been given creative freedom from the powers that be.
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