Article: Christopher George The University of Westminster BA runway show marked the second time that the University of Westminster has shown during the London Fashion Week schedule. Professor Andrew Groves radical rethink of how fashion education is delivered has meant that the Westminster course is aligned with the international fashion calendar. SoEdited caught the runway show during LFW, experiencing the cutting edge of fashion design, creative direction, tailoring and subversive ideas.
Georgia Fallon ‘Dyke Sport’ explores butch and femme in lesbian culture, creating a fantasy world. Strong shouldered, dramatic silhouettes embody uncompromising and fierce women
James Harjette Clever construction techniques and practical details inspire Harjette who also creates unique fabrics with rich, tactile surfaces.
Louisa Yung Inspired by the erotic illustrations of Toshio Saeki, Yung’s collection investigates innocent curiosity and daring vulgarity, rejecting the ideals of submissive women in erotic art.
Lidiia Pyshna 30s cinema icons are referenced - female pioneers Marlene Dietrich and Lee Miller refusing to comply with Hollywood femininity. Blood-red, symbolic of strength, suffering and passion
Linda Zhuang innocence and identity and the process of altering personas. Tailoring forms a strong masculine influence, contrasted with many references to the ultra-feminine and ‘anti-sexy’ Japanese Lolita subculture.
Eduardo Vegas Memories of listening to Pink Floyd’s The Wall, during childhood, inspired Vegas’s darkly dramatic menswear collection.
Glenn Wigham Inspired by ‘Operation Pedestal’ the mission that saved the besieged island of Malta during WW2, Wigwam’s menswear features striking, ‘dazzle camouflage’ prints. Cutting is influenced by archival naval garments, reflecting the chaos of combat.
Melissa Eaki
Brash 80s colour, ‘Miami Babe’ illustrations and hand painting are used for ‘awkward’ layering, western tailoring, and illustrative knitwear.
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 Fashion editor: Savannah Barthorpe British heritage brand Hawes & Curtis captures the spirit of travel with the SS19 ‘Whatever Your Journey’ campaign. Customers are invited to join Hawes & Curtis on its remarkable voyage – from a single Jermyn Street shirtmaker in 1913 to an internationally recognised lifestyle brand whose clients have included royalty, Hollywood stars and sporting heroes. The campaign draws on the idea that Hawes & Curtis is the style destination for every occasion and important life event.
Delicately combining luxury with essentials, the collection is a sophisticated, pared-down edit of practical pieces that can be worn wherever your travels take you. Menswear highlights include the travel suit, non-iron shirts, Italian linen blazers and smart separates. The womenswear collection features luxuriously lightweight linen shirts in sorbet shades, the brand’s signature pussy bow blouses with updated seasonal prints and sharp executive cotton shirts that exude power and professionalism. Hawes & Curtis CEO Touker Suleyman said: “We want our customers to know that we will provide them with sartorial essentials for every step of the way, from graduation to the first interview to their wedding day.” Hawes & Curtis
 Fashion editor: Savannah Barthorpe Fun Affair SS19 collection: Moon Girl presents a space-age and Art Deco inspired collection of garments boasting lavish fabrics and bold geometric shapes. Designer Xi Zhu, inspired by the 1960s social changes, makes a statement about the role of clothing in the modern age. With recurring moon motifs in the Spring/Summer 2019 collection, Moon Girl is a futuristic spin on the myth of Artemis, Olympian goddess of the moon, a symbol of female independence whose energy is sourced from the moon. The collection employs Art Deco techniques inspired by the space-age of the 60s, resulting in symmetrical, geometric and slim-fitting forms. The garments include striking staple items of the decade with the mini and midi skirts, angular dresses, and trouser suits.
 BY SARA DARLING PLASTIC IS NOT WELCOME HERE With World Environment Day just around the corner, ethical holiday brand Aspiga has pledged to clean up Malindi beach in Kenya, with a new initiative which will see them removing a basket of plastic for every pair of their Kenyan sandals sold. Even though Kenya has banned plastic bags, there is still a lot of plastic bottles, flip flops, fishing nets which are a hazard for the marine life and the future of the planet. The brand has maintained a close relationship with the Kenyan community since they launched, and are delighted to be able to include local children in this project in promoting the avoidance of plastic. With a range of eco-friendly products including bamboo cotton buds, re-useable snack bags, E-coffee cups and Swell drink bottles, Aspiga are on a mission to recycle as much waste as possible and are on their way to a zero-plastic office. Through their production processes, they try to avoid airfreight whenever possible, minimising the company's carbon footprint. And the brand's packaging is reviewed regularly as they strive to create as little waste possible when sending our goods. With over 60 different sandal styles in the Kenyan range, you can shop in the pop-up shop on at 345 Kings Road which opens on 17th May for three weeks or online at https://www.aspiga.com/ The campaign will launch online on May 1st and run through to World Environment day on 5th June 2019.  BY SARA DARLING If you are looking for pretty jewellery that means something, London based, fine-jewellery brand Ananya, has just launched its 'Mogra' collection, which has taken inspiration from the Jasmine blossom which has deep roots in Indian spirituality. Designer Ananya has called upon her heritage which celebrates the Jasmine flower; In Hindu religion, this is traditionally worn to celebrate a woman’s femininity, strength, empowerment and good luck, and this subtle symbol has been re-imagined in a range of contemporary jewellery. Each exquisitely crafted piece, gives the wearer a connection to the energy flow to the chakras, and the designs are available in necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings, using precious stones including white diamonds, Mother of Pearl and the bright colours of yellow, pink and blue sapphire, tanzanite, pink tourmaline and emerald. This is an investment that you will want to keep forever. Check out the full collection here   Femininity is defined differently by every woman. To some, it may be pink frills, but to others it may be portrayed in a vision of black. Many ballerinas struggle with low self-esteem because of the competitive nature of ballet. This often causes depression, anxiety and eating disorders. We recognise the dark side of ballet, and the importance of empowering women to be confident in their bodies, mind and personal style.       EDITORIAL TEAM
Fashion Director: Joseph Toronka Creative Director: Christopher George FASHION TEAM Photographer Kyoungmin Ryu: www.whereismin.com @whereismin Stylists Laura Vétil / @lauravetil Tiedan Diao / @chipperdan Anna Häwi / @annahaawi Paige Geidel / paigegeidel.com / @paigegeidel Model Katherine Beard: @classylassy101 Stockists Zara / zara.com Topshop / topshop.com Nastygal / nastygal.com Simone Rocha / simonerocha.com AtelierSo / ateliersocraft.com River Island / riverisland.com Stradivarius / stradivarius.com Dr. Martens / drmartens.com Rocky Mountain Featherbed / rocky-mountain-featherbed.com       EDITORIAL TEAM
Fashion Director: Joseph Toronka Creative Director: Christopher George FASHION TEAM PHOTOGRAPHER Camila Urrea- @camilaurreaa STYLIST Karen Nehme- @karennme Hedvig Skarstedt- @hedvigskarstedt Mattias Voltmer- @volt.mer Meghan Williams- @megswilliams_ MODEL Elvira Backteman- @elvirabackteman MAKEUP ARTIST Rasa Sezaite- @rasa_sezaite STOCKEST Zara: www.zara.com Topshop: www.topshop.com/?dual_run=monty& Massimo Dutti: www.massimodutti.com/gb/ Mango: www.shop.mango.com/gb Reserved: www.reserved.com/gb/en/ Seamlessly combining genders to create an androgynous look. Achieved by contrasting textures, fabrics, and materials. The “Dangerously Dapper” style is a balance of masculine and feminine elements. This concept is echoed through the mix of timeless elegance and upcoming clothing and accessories trends.      EDITORIAL TEAM Fashion Director: Joseph Toronka Creative Director: Christopher George FASHION TEAM PHOTOGRAPHER Lina Geoushy @linageoushy / linageoushy@gmail.com MODEL Mattias Voltmer @volt.mer STYLISTS Chandler McMillan @chandlermcmillan / www.chandlermcmillan.com Allegra Wolf @allegriii / wolfallegra@aol.com Magdaléna BOUDET @magda_bdt / magda.boudet@gmail.com HAIR AND MAKEUP Chandler McMillan @chandlermcmillan / www.chandlermcmillan.com STOCKISTS Topshop (www.topshop.com) & Other Stories (www.stories.com) Zara (www.zara.com) Forever 21 (www.forever21.com) Levi (www.levi.com) Primark (www.primark.com) Dolls Kill (www.dollskill.com) Brandy Melville (www.brandymelville.co.uk) Carmar (www.carmardenim.com) Maje ((www.uk.maje.com)
Fashion Editor: Savannah Barthorpe Photographer: Tiberio Ventura JOANNE HYNES launches SS19, MY FIRST LOVE. In house designed textiles play a key role in expressing the inventiveness of Hynes’s craft and the celebration of pure fashion which are the DNA of her own fashion stories. The collection is driven by three unique textile stories within one collection revolving around the nostalgic narrative of “one’s first love”. ALL WEATHER GIRL references memories of both sunny and stormy days, where hand drawn clouds, suns and leopard marker prints are shot in the campaign against a moody blue sky backdrop. A transparent polka dot rain mac gives irreverence to a functional fashion piece. DIY DATE, modelled by Lily Lyons (aged 17) celebrates the creative cool girl, expressing herself with the idea of bricolage and dressing up; she is not afraid to have fun, wearing bow accessories on top of her head and dotted on her printed clothes. She wears prints together in a clashing artistic way where graphic textiles are developed in Hynes’s studio using spontaneous chopped up paper in an inventive manner. POW WOW story modelled by Marija Aslimoska (33) resides in a hyper feminine world with a tough love sensibility. From the first party dress, boxing, horses, arcade culture and carousels, the collection references nostalgic memories which are translated into truly singular collector item pieces. Appliques and embroideries hand crafted in POW pop art iconography are beautifully stitched onto feminine pieces such as a carousel dress with velvet.
Fashion editor: Savannah Barthorpe As a designer Lucy Baxter challenges the boundaries of handcrafts by experimenting with innovative and sustainable techniques infusing glamour, colour and texture into her designs. She has worked in London and Milan in various roles in the fashion industry gaining experience at companies including Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Brioni and the Max Mara Group. Her graduate collection ‘BeDazzled’ opened Kingston University's MA fashion show and it was also selected to show at Wuhan Fashion Week 2018 in China. This collection captures the shimmering glamour of Peruvian dress which is rich in embellishment, colour and story. It identifies the unique ethnic cultures and regional costumes of Peru by exploring colour, pattern and handcrafts of Peruvian costume and textiles through contemporary embellishments. Focusing on weaving technique where recycled hand-cut plastic is intricately woven into mesh, playing around with vivid blended colours and geometric shapes.
Photographer: Brian Rankin
HMUA: Candice Meggan Model 1: Liza @profilemodels Model 2: Regina Set Designer: Nicola Sadori |
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November 2019
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