Editor: Christopher George
Sustainability has become a main topic and objective; not because it’s fashionable, but because it has become essential for us as ‘consuming monsters’ to take the responsibility on how we buy our clothing and fashion brands. With many fashion brand now taking on board our wishes for sustainability in the fashion industry, we have a growing number of brands positively pursuing different facets of sustainability.
Italy has become a main influencer in sustainability, with brands such as Montegallo Accessories, Robert Collina Knitwear, Closed Denim, all forging through with positive action in production, manufacturing and design. Along with the Swedish brand NA-KD established in 2015 and with many other international fashion houses.
There is some light in the fashion industry for the growth of sustainability, that is needed now more than ever.
WRAD is a focus design company dedicated to challenging the fashion industry through sustainable innovation and social change, today it focuses on 4 synergic programs: Training, innovation, liberation and communication.
Creative Director: Christopher George
Sustainable Italian brand Boyish, LA based denim wear has always been committed to using sustainable production and manufacturing. Jeans made with sustainable fabrics and washes, through eco-friendly and cruelty-free processes. BOYISH distributed throughout Europe by Gruppo Brama who has been committed to the process of sustainability for many years.
Denim has a huge carbon foot print, and is also one of the most popular fabrics fashion item produced. So to have brands such as BOYISH dedicated to an eco friendly production line of its fashion denim brand, is essential in promoting other denim brands to follow in their foot steps.
Dying and washing jeans IS a dirty busyness. There are actions that can be taken to reduce the water and chemical footprint so damaging to our environment:
Always choose certified organic cotton. This means chemical free jeans, safer for the planet. EASY!
The world Bank estimates almost 20% of global industry comes from the treatment of dying textiles. AWARENESS!
The typical pair blue jeans can consume up to 5,000 letters of waiter in its life circle.
Thats a lot of water gone. SCARY!
Be a more Boyish and make positive changes in the fashion industry.
Arts Editor: Christopher George
Sunset after high noon echoes the great beauty of Indian summers. Vividly etching colours through the horizon, the last ray before the moonlight gardens emerge; the golden hour is upon us.
Rocky Star’s Spring Summer 2020 collection chronicles tales of a summer day sunset in the glorious Mughal gardens of India. It paints a canvas that interplays lightening shadows against the bloom of the empress of the garden- the bougainvillea.
The collection unfolds to reveal the most subtle detailing accented by Indian paisley prints; a motif reminiscent of the 18th-century Mughal textures. Reflecting baroque traces, iridescent sequins lend to the collection in gold and silver. Traditional inspiration onto western silhouettes manifest in intricate cord work and self-on-self texturing that appear both in day and eveningwear in the collection.
Savoir-faire redefines contemporary elegance in pleated skirts, draped dresses and tunics alongside bomber jackets, deconstructed blazers, and T-shirts. Summer friendly silhouettes, oversized, and fuss- free are adorned with dramatic ruffles, and exaggerated collars in sheer gathered tulle, delicate satin, and Chanderi cotton. An earthy color palette of hazy beige and soil black come together with moonlight ivory, frequently punctuated by vibrant bougainvillea fuchsia.
Arts Editor: Christopher George
Photographer: Simon Armstrong
Using her past to contribute to the future of fashion A-JANE presents Perception, a modern collection of asymmetrical designs brought to life using a combination of bold colours layered on more neutral tones. This season sees A-JANE staying true to it’s aesthetic by creating innovative and contemporary clothing.
Primarily composed of cotton, this collection epitomises comfort, durability and quality expertly modernised with the introduction of the brand’s in-house designed fabric prints. Constantly experimenting with its own creativity A-JANE’s latest collection comprises of matte silver, deep blue and warm orange, bursting with exuberance set against black and white fabric.
The strong asymmetrical design of Perception creates a unique, avant-garde silhouette. Ever the innovating designer, Alice Jane utilises modern techniques to produce 3D pleats, thus succeeding in fashioning elegant space age womenswear.
Fashion Editor: Savannah Barthorpe
The story lies in the details, a narrative of traditional skills blended with modern techniques, interpreted by the models and other creatives wearing the collection
As ever, the workmanship of the ultra-skilled craftspeople involved in the collection has been vital. Hand embroidery, ultra-feminine hand-dyed silk couture fringing and unique knotting techniques – all made by small-scale English manufacturers - individualise every garment. Striving towards sustai ability, the tailoring is also crafted in England via traditional makers who took up the challenge to update their classic, sharp silhouettes with new techniques, materials and cuts that transcend conventional modes of masculine and feminine. Highly technical cocooning sits over sharp tailoring, while delicate silk chiffon refines formal shirts and masculine cut pants.
This season unites a variety of source inspirations including pioneering American photographer Saul Leiter and Italian painter Father Constantino Ruggeri, an innovator in sacred art. But it is also built on very personal memories - an intimate reimagining of our own archives and previous collections, straddling and uniting London and Paris. This has been a chance to revisit and reframe the most poignant pieces.
To honour this season’s focus on recasting heritage we are also extremely privileged to collaborate with the Italian jewellery Brand BVLGARI, loaning an exclusive selection of creations from its Heritage Collection - an extensive collection of archival jewellery dating back to the brand’s founding more than 130 years ago.
Arts Editor: Christopher George
Emerging fashion designers and contemporary brands come together for the second time at WHITE MILAN, with the Estonian showroom FASHIONAVANT hosting an exquisite showcase of their designers.
Piret Rätsep, co–founder of FASHIONAVANT explained; "In addition to August, Triinu Pungits and Kristel Kuslapuu who showcased with us in February, we are excited to present the collections of some new brands as well. The brand mix that we are offering represents both minimal and essential lines, but also brands with multifaceted and eclectic styles, all being sustainable and produced locally.”
The impressive selection of designers showcased by fashionavant featured a breathtaking vision of the creative future fashion has to offer. Not just coming out of Estonia, but pioneering designers inspiring the global fashion industry.
In recent years Estonia has shown a serious nurturing of its design talents. These talents are not only inspired by the global fashion industry, but have become a serious contender to the fashion industry. Strong attention to modern contemporary design has propelled the Estonian fashion network onto the global fashion stage.
Lilli Jahilo received university degrees in design from Oslo and Tallinn, she trained at the famous Chanel Atelier Lesage in Paris. Her signature style is uniquely feminine, blending Scandinavian minimalism with expressive colors and the technique of haute couture. The brand maintains the highest levels of craftsmanship at all levels - including design, fabric selection and the best tailors employed in-house.
August combines natural materials with innovative design. Construction of clean forms, refined lines, and silent expression. Appreciating elegant contemporary design along with a focus on sustainability in fashion design. Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified fabric mills and sustainable fabric fairs are the cornerstone of August’s fabric sourcing. August is founded by an Estonian designer, Äli Kargoja (Studio Bercot, Paris), who after gaining experience in the ateliers ofNicolas Andreas Taralis and Maison Martin Margiela, returned to Estonia to execute her vision of designing clothes.
Kristel Kuslapuu is a post-renaissance knitwear designer who created her eponymous clothing brand in 2011. In 2017 Kristel begun numbering every item that she personally hand–knitted to mark them as unique pieces of art and collectors’ items. In 2018 a ready-to-wear (RTW) line was launched, which consists of machine- knitted winter necessities, as well as machine-sewn casual wear.
She is a full-blown pathological maximalist who believes in very slow fashion and who gets inspired by clichés and self–irony. Her designs are known for bold colors, gender fluidity and provocative messages, while her fashion shows are better described as theatrical or performance art.
Tanel Veenre has two lines of jewellery. The brand Tanel Veenre Jewellery is a whimsical and dreamy fashion jewellery brand. The slogan “Kingdom of Dreams” captures its essence.
Tanel Veenre Contemporary Jewellery represents internationally acclaimed art jewellery. Exhibitions of his work have been held across the globe and his pieces are sold in galleries in Sweden, USA, New Zealand, Belgium, the Netherlands and Canada. Tanel Veenre is frequently invited to teach in art colleges throughout the world.
Triinu Pungits was a finalist at the prestigious International Talent Support (ITS) fashion competition, and a semi– finalist at the International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères (2016). She also showcased her SS18 collection during London Fashion Week as the winner of the Fashion Scout's Ones To Watch Award. Bold yet tasteful plays of different colors, shapes, digital prints and cuts give the brand a distinctive yet tasteful face. All prints used in Triinu Pungits’s collections have been designed and created by Triinu herself.
Arts Editor: Christopher George
The House of Luxury has just launched its first pop-up shop, bringing fine jewellery brands Aisha Baker and Tabbah to Harrods, one of the world’s most prestigious stores.
Both brands offer a unique visual and breathtaking appeal in the luxury market, boasting cutting-edge design and expert craftsmanship.
Aisha Baker burst onto the scene in 2017, as a collaboration between the brands namesake and Jewellery Design Director, Hoonik Chang. It initially launched with the high jewellery line, Mirror Mirror, before releasing its more commercial extension, Present and the brand-new Prism collection.
Aisha baker creates “wearable art” for the 21stcentury woman, with each collection boasting true investment pieces that offer a dash of escapism from our busy day-to-day lives.
Tabbah, one of the world's oldest family-run jewellery houses is currently being led by 5th generation, Nagib Tabbah, who has not only continued to design and produce breath-taking high jewellery like his family members before him - he's also transformed the brand with striking, edgy, modern and avant-garde 'New Looks', created for strong women.
Founded in 1862, the Tabbah family have an atelier in Lebanon with over 120 jewellery experts, passionately working to bring their hand-drawn creations to life.
The superior craftsmanship, industry knowledge and skills of Tabbah's ateliers are intrinsic to the house's prestigious reputation amongst jewellery collectors, as the brand continues to remain loyal to its heritage, while creating explicitly modern pieces for the younger generation.
Article: Savannah Barthorpe
Paul Bogards legendary work; “The End of Night”.
The book mentions the moment Albert Einstein lit the first lightbulb and how it changed everyone’s life; however, nowadays over-used artificial lights make the night as bright as the daytime. No more beaming little stars clustered in the sky, excessive artificial lights and electricity take over to heat up the earth more and more.
SIMON MO SS20 seasons key focus is the classic pyjama silhouettes, neon trimmings, contrasting colours and cuts paired with vintage blanket prints and dramatic star prints made from recycled yarn.
The collection aims to bring alive the serious threats posed to nocturnal wildlife, plant life and human insomnia which have been created through artificial light pollution in the modern world.
Article: Savannah Barthorpe
Fashion in a time of emergency. How dose design evolve?
We are not prepared for out new world. A landscape that we have no idea if we can survive in. Humans are the problem, and humans are also the solution.
Phoebe English is asking these questions. Like many fashion designers; drawing attention to the topic of human survival.
SS20 Collection is founded on attempts at problem solving with pieces encompassing: Zero-waste pattern cutting. Recycled products from off-cuts. High quality dead stock fabric sourcing. Nylon made from regenerated ocean plastics.
These are just some of the methods going into Phoebe English designs, where she is continually challenging the fashion industry.