Article: Christopher George
The University of Westminster BA runway show marked the second time that the University of Westminster has shown during the London Fashion Week schedule. Professor Andrew Groves radical rethink of how fashion education is delivered has meant that the Westminster course is aligned with the international fashion calendar.
SoEdited caught the runway show during LFW, experiencing the cutting edge of fashion design, creative direction, tailoring and subversive ideas.
‘Dyke Sport’ explores butch and femme in lesbian culture, creating a fantasy world. Strong shouldered, dramatic silhouettes embody uncompromising and fierce women
Clever construction techniques and practical details inspire Harjette who also creates unique fabrics with rich, tactile surfaces.
Inspired by the erotic illustrations of Toshio Saeki, Yung’s collection investigates innocent curiosity and daring vulgarity, rejecting the ideals of submissive women in erotic art.
30s cinema icons are referenced - female pioneers Marlene Dietrich and Lee Miller refusing to comply with Hollywood femininity. Blood-red, symbolic of strength, suffering and passion
innocence and identity and the process of altering personas. Tailoring forms a strong masculine influence, contrasted with many references to the ultra-feminine and ‘anti-sexy’ Japanese Lolita subculture.
Memories of listening to Pink Floyd’s The Wall, during childhood, inspired Vegas’s darkly dramatic menswear collection.
Inspired by ‘Operation Pedestal’ the mission that saved the besieged island of Malta during WW2, Wigwam’s menswear features striking, ‘dazzle camouflage’ prints. Cutting is influenced by archival naval garments, reflecting the chaos of combat.
Brash 80s colour, ‘Miami Babe’ illustrations and hand painting are used for ‘awkward’ layering, western tailoring, and illustrative knitwear.