SøEdited Team: SøCreative Director: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe Sharp lines projecting beyond the feminine shape, with a softening of fabrics and textures framing sections of the flesh. The THEUNISSEN FW24 collection continues to explore the image of a liberated woman through strong, entirely monochrome looks. This season, Belgian designer Ariane Theunissen emphasized cut and volume, revealing the power of her silhouettes. Press: TOTEM Fashion
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SøCreative Director: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe Something extrodanary happened at London Fashion Week this AW 2024. Helen Anthony’s collection took centre stage of designers presenting their vision, and the ‘cat- walk’ hit an unexpected high dimension, with Anthony’s sophisticated, sharp, definite creative direction. We were as gasp at the astonishing bravery and creativity served. The new Helen Anthony AW24 collection represents a rule-breaking moment in the brand helmed by esteemed tailor and designer Naeem Anthony. At the rudimental level, the collection is an homage to the timeless and meticulous tailoring techniques that Anthony has become so renowned for, and yet aesthetically it is an expression of boundary breaking, freedom and gender diversity, high sexuality and an almost aggressive attitude. Boldly feminine silhouettes featuring notably strong masculine shoulders immediately give shape to a modern collection, while the fabric diversity imbues the collection with wholly unique textural qualities Luxurious fabrics such as cashmere, wool, satin, and mesh have been beautifully rendered into strong tailored silhouettes, from voluminous long coats to short cropped styles via flared trousers and oversized bags. With hand-knitted multi-coloured crochet details from the brand’s collaboration with Yorkshire-based Laxtons Yarn, the collection at once champions the heritage of fine tailoring while also pushing its envelope. Along with the use of a vibrant palette of yellow, red, blue, green, pink, and white to represent Naeem’s diverse cultural influences. this was a visual mind blowing show of fashion design. SøEdited Team:
SøCreative Director: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe Step into the stylish realm of ‘Galaxy Beyond’ by Mark Fast, where fashion merges with urban city architecture and combines space-inspired charm, gothic realm, and luxurious comfort, creating a striking presence on the urban streets. This collection, with its extra-terrestrial edge, is a fusion of Mark Fast’s knit mastery and the creative legacy of Joe Colombo, a 60s architect who made his career based on futurist innovations, incorporating what he called the fourth dimension: time. Joe Colombo was widely recognized as the “creator of the future environment”. His holistic approach transformed objects into something extraordinary. His intuitive and exploratory designs pushed the boundaries, revolutionising living spaces. Mark Fast skilfully incorporates his artistry into the fabric of this fashion narrative, creating cosy knit designs revealing subtle details beneath oversized coats, and attire crafted from weather-resistant materials, transforming the traditional runway into a dynamic canvas of diverse interstellar expressions. The all-in-one denim boots and patent boots, coupled with matching gloves, creates the Mark Fast Autumn Winter 2024 statement. The juxtaposition of fluffy knit textures, faux feathered fringe elements, and velvet-textured bodycon dresses adds a touch of luxury and playfulness. Press: @IPRLONDON.COM SøEdited Team:
SøCreative Director: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe The timelessness goes through Jarel Zhang collection, the designer mixed textures, shapes and colors adding new silhouettes meantime recycling items from the previous FW23 collection. Jarel plays between past, present and future in his artistic direction but also through his looks. Following his passion for art and after having made the previous presentation surrounded by painters, for this FW24 collection, Jarel Zhang brings dancers on the stage as models. Jarel also develops this idea by presenting his collection in Italy. For him, it's important to exhibit in different cities. With this in mind, Jarel Zhang insists on the absence of boundaries. Press: TOTEM FASHION SøEdited Team:
SøCreative Director: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe Rocky Star has always been dedicated to the vision of creating fashion that is as contemporary as it is rooted and as elegant as it is innovative. And since 1995 the brand has been creating luxury contemporary design, with a striking edge of Rock N Roll. This season, Rocky Star's “Moonlight Enigma” Autumn/Winter 24/25 collection draws inspiration from the fearless Vikings and the captivating mystique of the Nordic region. Designed for women who exude both power and sensuality, exquisite pieces blend elements with timeless elegance. Luxurious silhouettes embellished with sequin embroidery, metallic textures, and the brand's signature botanical prints capture the essence of luxury. A color palette featuring gold, black, and grey envelopes each dress, creating a symphony of daring sophistication. Press: BLACK PR SøEdited Team:
SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe KARL LAGERFELD Pre-Fall 2024 A core palette of black and white is complemented by the primary colours blue and red, these colours have become a modern classic standard writing fashion, and elevating the simple tones. Futuristic cuts and shapes along side a contemporary traditional silhouette serve a wearable and flexible option in fashion design. FRONTLINE FASHION SøEdited Team Article: Alexander James SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe Ukrainian Fashion Week chose London as its platform once again to showcase its design talent, while full-scale war rages in its homeland. Brands TAMAR KEBURIA, J’AMEMME and GASANOVA all introduced AW24 collections at London Fashion Week. GASANOVA The GASANOVA AW24 collection is a hymn to the rich and aromatic world of spices, inspired by the warmth and depth that these ingredients bring to our daily lives. Colour palette are a blend of noble hues, including deep burgundy, earthy brown, serene green, elegant blue and shades of gold. J’AMEMME Daring nude sequins and ethereal pleats became the core of J’AMEMME’s AW24 collection, called Le solstice d'hiver. Inspired by the works of Ukrainian illustrator Okhrim Sudomora, who portrayed the world of micelles, the collection recreates the authentic shapes and textures inherent in the artist's work.
TAMRIKO KEBURIA Designer Tamriko Keburia, twice displaced by war, brings a deeply personal and poignant perspective to the runway with a collection that marries fashion with the complex theme of refugee identity. Through symbolic mirrored suitcases, the runway invites viewers to reflect on their own lives in the context of a refugee's journey – a journey the designer themselves have navigated. SøEdited Team: SøCreative Director: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe "Once upon a Time" Paul Costelloe's AW 2024 collection takes you to the streets of Downtown New York and its Lower East Side. In true style, both in fashion and in story telling, Costelloe travels a journey of the brands historical roots and heritage. Winter whites, charcoal greys, rich tweeds with leather trimmings, along with Costelloe's bold tailoring. Voluminous shapes in wool knitwear and coats to shield form the NY wounds blowing across its urban jungle. Classic design still has its place in fashion, as always the brand dictates with elegance and wearability. Costelloe: "I have added a personal moment of nostalgia by adding a print based on the streets where I used to live" Press: TRACE PR SøEdited Team: SøCreative Director: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe August 2023 was the passing of British iconic PUNK artist Jamie Reid, infamous for his works with The Sex Pistols and their covers and logos. For Fall-Winter 2024. Hiroaki Sueyasu, Kidill’s artistic director, mentions, “Jamie was my very starting point”. Sueyasu adds, “the loss of something I believed would be in experience somewhat eternally is like a void, he was a stranger, but he was also portraying me. Even though Jamie and the other remarkable figures who created early punk have left us, it is our duty to ensure that the essence of punk, that has influenced our time and our people in countless ways, stays alive. I would like to offer my condolences inimitably. The preeminent theme for the Fall-Winter 2024 collection is not simple destruction or denial, but the positive energy of those who live in the same era continuing to reboot the “punk”. The collection, with its DIY-inspired embellishments, prints and jacquard weaves by Japanese artisans, is an exploration of the intersection of early punk classicism and modernity in design, silhouette, and the essence of detailing. Sueyasu dares the praises of "punk" through an array of excessive destructs, reviving of FOSTEXGARMENTS MA-1s, ripped denim, and vintage-washed-out cut-and-sewns/t-shirts/ tops. Press: TOTEM FASHION SøEdited Team: SøEditor-in-Chief: Chris Saint Sims SøFashion Director: Savannah Barthorpe AW24 sees a re-charged collaboration with artist and designer, Jack Irving showcasing his work of wearable inflatable art sculptures through a creative live installation. Now in its 22nd year, On|Off continues to support creative innovation and push boundaries through fashion, technology and art. On|Off Director Lee Lapthorne spoke about the collaboration with Jack Irving, this being several season now with Irving and On|Off collaborating together during LFW. “I am excited to be working with Jack again and embracing cutting-edge technology, such as advanced video projection systems and holographic technology, to create an immersive experience, in collaboration with Jack. Integrating state-of-the-art presentation technologies with artificial intelligence (AI) opens up a realm of possibilities for creative expression and innovation within the world of fashion and art” Set at Spitalfields E1, the creative concept is based on a subterranean aquatic underworld with the discoveries of a new alien species set in a backdrop of an abandoned power plant in the ocean. Over the years, the sea combined with electromagnetic energy has been harnessing and creating new hybrid alien life forms. |
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March 2024
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